There are lots of reasons why the items that we use everyday are both manufactured and disposed of overseas. Some of this is due to geographical variations which mean that certain materials are found in particular places rather than others. For example, cotton needs a rich soil, plenty of sunshine and no frost, which is one reason why the raw materials needed to make your jeans and T-shirt aren’t grown in Lancashire.
However, even if cotton COULD be easily grown in the UK, the bigger fashion brands would still not make your jeans and T shirt here. That’s because, in comparison to many other parts of the world, the UK has relatively tight laws around worker rights and environmental protection. This means that employees have to have safe working conditions and proper pay, and that any industrial processes related to garment production, such as tanning or dyeing, for example, have to include environmental protection processes to ensure that air and water supplies remain relatively unpolluted. Adhering to these standards raises production costs for companies so, to keep profit margins as large as possible, most global brands opt to produce, manufacture and dispose of their products in the Global South where it’s considerably cheaper to operate because standards on worker rights and the environment are lower.
The results of this are some seriously damaging practices that most of us would not want associated with the products that we use on a daily basis. For example:
- The rising popularity of lightweight gas and electric vehicles has led to an increase in demand for bauxite, the ore needed to produce aluminium. Human rights groups have raised concerns about deforestation, land and water pollution related to bauxite mining in the Amazon with links to the car manufacturer Ford. Illegal mining linked to global supply chains in the Amazon is also forcing indigenous people from their lands.
- Many of those working in raw materials production suffer serious health issues as a result of exposure to toxic chemicals. Work by the Environmental Justice Foundation highlights the plight of cotton farmers as they work with a crop which accounts for just 2.4% of the world’s cultivated land but uses 6% of the world’s pesticides and 16% of its insecticides. Chronic exposure to pesticides is linked to cancer, Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s, hormone disruption, developmental disorders and sterility.
- The fast fashion industry is associated with sweatshop labour and difficult and dangerous conditions for employees with the most famous example being the Rana Plaza disaster where the collapse of a Bangladeshi clothing factory producing garments for at least 29 global brands killed over 1,000 garment workers. Concerns about the safety of the building had been raised previously but were ignored by managers who ordered workers back to the factory to complete an order.
In short, all this means that lots of the items that we get to use and enjoy everyday, including clothing, electricals, bikes and cars, come at the cost of people and environments in other parts of the world. Or, to put it another way, the UK and other richer nations get all the BENEFITS of the item, while the rest of the world gets all the COSTS.
Unfortunately, it’s exactly the same story at the other end of an object’s lifecycle. Due to exactly the same processes as before (lower wages, worker protections and environmental legislation), many objects are returned to the Global South when they are no longer wanted in a process called waste colonialism.